I ate pork cheeks at this tiny restaurant in Barcelona—Cervecería Catalana, if you’re ever there—and became slightly obsessed. Spent the next month figuring out how to make them at home. Here’s what I learned.
What’s the Deal with Pork Cheeks
Cheeks are a working muscle. Lots of collagen. When you braise them forever, that collagen melts into gelatin and everything turns silky and rich. It’s like the best parts of pulled pork but in little individual portions.
Also they’re cheap. Like embarrassingly cheap. My butcher charges $4 a pound and always seems surprised anyone wants them.
How I Make Them
Salt the cheeks, let them sit 30 minutes. Sear them hard in a hot pan—you want actual browning, not steaming. Takes 3-4 minutes per side.
In the same pan: onions, carrots, celery, garlic. Soften them. Splash of wine to scrape up the good stuff. Then stock—enough to mostly cover the cheeks.
Into the oven at 300°F, covered, for about 3 hours. They’re done when a fork goes through without resistance. Honestly you can’t overcook them. I’ve left them 4 hours and they just got better.
Pull the cheeks out, strain the liquid, reduce it by half until glossy. Pour back over meat. Done.
The Wine Situation
For braising: something cheap and Spanish. Garnacha. Any generic Côtes du Rhône. You’re cooking with it, don’t spend more than $10.
For drinking: I want something with body to match the richness but not so tannic it fights the sauce. My go-tos are aged Rioja (the vanilla-oak thing works perfectly), Côtes du Rhône (matches what’s in the braise), or Burgundy Pinot Noir if I’m feeling fancy.
Variations
Spanish version: smoked paprika, sherry in the braise, serve over olive oil mashed potatoes.
Italian version: San Marzano tomatoes in the liquid, serve over creamy polenta.
All good. The cheeks don’t really care what you do to them. They just want to be braised until they give up.
